Blogging for jewelers and metalsmiths made easy! (and for those interested in jewelry and gemstones)

Those of you who have been attendees at Rio Grande’s Catalog In Motion in Tucson received a letter this week from CEO Alan Bell.

Our first Catalog In Motion^® back in 1988 created a whole new way for you to see, touch and learn about jewelry-making products. The show has been hugely successful because of you and all the others who joined us in Tucson each year. We are grateful for your past attendance and hope you got as much out of Catalog In Motion^® in Tucson as we did.

While we’ll no longer be taking Catalog In Motion^® to Tucson, we’ll be bringing Catalog In Motion^® to you every day of the year, any time of day.

As new technology continues to stride forward, we find ourselves in an ideal position to extend our availability to our customers worldwide. We can allocate the very same resources which made Catalog In Motion^® so successful—expertise, passion and commitment to education—in a way that will ignite your collaborative spirit and nourish our industry like never before.

Our plans include the continued growth of our educational library, including instructional videos and creative projects that you can access whenever the need arises. We’ll produce webinars and visual training demonstrations that will be available to you any time the creative spark hits. Internet-based user groups for our high-tech equipment and specialized lines will invite and encourage collaboration and innovation. You will be able to gain a wealth of knowledge, network with colleagues and try new processes in the comfort of your own studio—you could be watching Phil Poirier’s Bonny Doon hydraulic press demonstration over your morning coffee while a fellow jeweler across the globe watches at the end of his day.

We’ll continue to offer the support and educational opportunities you’ve come to rely on. Get hands-on training at any one of our jewelry-making classes or events, or drop in anytime right here at our Albuquerque facility; we’ll be featuring the best experts available. Just a few weeks ago, Argentium^® Silver expert, Ronda Coryell, joined us in Albuquerque to teach fusing and granulation! And of course, you can get live support for the tougher challenges by calling our expert Technical Support Team that boasts more than 15 decades of combined experience. And while we won’t be in Tucson, we’ll still offer special-pricing promotions on select items during the Tucson Gem & Mineral show.

We thank you for your prior participation in Catalog In Motion^®. We’re excited to move forward with you, to be a growing part of the creative spirit that draws us all together and continues to move our industry forward.

Whether you come visit us here in Albuquerque or on the web, we’ll be here for you with products, service and know-how every day of the year.“

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Probably the most significant presentation at the 2010 Tucson Gem Show was from Robert James of the International School Of Gemology.

You may remember that Mr James claimed at the 2009 Tucson Gem Show that the recent flood of Red Andesine was instead treated Feldspar…his report started a rumble in the Industry that has resulted in a trip to the “mine” - lawsuits - the discrediting of an Olympic Games collectible gemstone (did you buy the Chinese Andesine Olympic Gems from DSN as natural?)…and now in 2010 Robert James was back with his latest report “Andesine - The Final Chapter”.

This event was attended by a virtual who’s who of the gemology field, US feldspar miners, luminaries of the international mining industry and some reporters we haven’t seen in quite some time…

I am not going to repeat the information - just give you some of the high points.

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Galatea: Jewelry By Artist.

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At the Bench Live
Feb. 4, 11 am-12:30 pm
Lee Krombholz presents
Setting Fancy-Cut Gems:
A Traditional Approach

Feb. 5, 11 am-12:30 pm
Lee Krombholz presents
Setting Fancy-Cut Gems 2:
A CAD/CAM Approach

As I mentioned in an earlier post - the “MJSA - At The Bench” presentations were some of the finest and most professionally presented programs I have ever seen at AGTA.

Having the opportunity to literally look over the shoulder of a Master Goldsmith as they work at the bench is - well as MasterCard says “Priceless”.

This particular presentation was a two day event based on an article that Lee did for the MJSA Journal in which he looked at setting a paisley shaped stone. In part one on the first day he did this using traditional methods of building and carving a wax…then on day two he took the same design and created his wax using a CAD/CAM program.

Lee Krombholz is a third generation jewelry artisan with years of experience in designing jewelry for his retail customers in his Cincinnati store.

What I found interesting (as a novice to CAD/CAM) was the difference in the finished product in the photo you can see the finished CAD/CAM wax and pendant setting on the left and the setting built and carved by hand from wax on the right. While the CAD/CAM mounting is crisp and clean…I think I like the traditionally built one better, it has a hand finished feel…just my opinion, what are your thoughts? Click the photo for a larger image - which do you like best?

Listening to Lee was both educational and entertaining, he was really great about audience questions and his explanations were easy to follow. He managed to bring an already well presented magazine article to life…Good Job Lee Krombholz.

In an audience made up of everything from students and new jewelers just starting out to bench jewelers who have been in the field for a number of years…I think that everyone took away useful info and a couple of new techniques from this event.

As a side note: one of the reasons for the success of this idea of watching a Jeweler “At The Bench Live” was the generous donation of tools and equipment from Southeastern Findings.

photo credit: last photo taken from the MJSA: Make It. Sell It. Profit. page on Facebook.

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You will see brands like Verragio who were “showcasing the latest engagement ring designs {including a brand new collection to be revealed this spring which is “truly” unlike any other ring} at the Centurion Jewelry Show to a select group of fine jewelry stores.”

They are:

The six designers shared two areas on the Centurion Collection Floor during the recent show in Tucson. Entries for the 2010 Centurion Emerging Designer Awards were voted on in 2009 by the top retail jewelers invited to the show.

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One of my favorite Tucson traditions has been to meet up with Marsha of Amazing Porcelain and Vlad of Golem Design Studio for dinner…this is always a fun time…and it makes me go to at least one bead show!

It features some of the finest Glass Artists in and out of the country…from glass artists like the fun and funky recycled glass pieces of Bronwen Heilman at Ghost Cow to the exquisite glass cuffs and unbelievably refined and elegant hand carved glass bangles of Kevin O’Grady all alongside the most innovative glass suppliers like Gaffer Glass USA.

In another tent the unique - hand cut beads of Africa John - this man finds some of the most unique gems and then personally cut beads from them - you can’t get much more ethically sourced than that! I look for Africa John at every show (Tucson & Quartzsite) just to see what new stones he has brought with him…who else would think “hmmm, gorgeous chunk of Ametrine - let’s cut a bead!”

In another room I found Avian Oasis an Australian Gemstone Bead Company and boy did they have some stunners…of course I walked up to the most expense strand in the room!

Great findings from the likes of Green Girl Studio, Hand Fast Designs by Kim Fox and Bead Inspirations…focals from the hands of the amazing Holly Gage of Gage Designs.

One really interesting feature at this show is that while you are showing your beads, you can also have your finest and one-of-a-kind beads professionally photographed by one of the biggest names in the world of Glass and Bead Photography…David Orr. Nestled in a room at the end of the hallway I found the master at work - I really enjoyed talking with him…and what a great feature for glass artists at this show!

…ok - I am done wandering through the tents and halls and it’s closing time - Hey Vlad - ready to go get dinner?

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In a townhall format facilitated by Bill Gallagher, CEO of Lori Bonn Design, Inc. (who have introduced their line of Clear Conscience Jewelry), the group assembled discussed the challenges facing companies looking to promote and use Eco and Ethically sourced materials. There were 25 - 30 people in attendance representing almost every facet of the industry…Jewelry Designers, both established and emerging, Gem Dealers, Jewelry Supply Companies, Manufacturers, Press and representatives from some of the major organizations in the Industry (MJSA, JEA, and others)…along with students…giving us all hope for a “greener” industry tomorrow.

The key players in this group came from a meeting in 2006 known as the Madison Dialogue:

The Madison Dialogue is a cross-sector initiative established to promote communication and information sharing among companies, civil society groups and others seeking to encourage best practices, sustainable economic development, and verified sources of responsible gold, diamonds and other minerals. Organizations, companies and individuals participate in the Madison Dialogue on a voluntary basis.

The Madison Dialogue was launched at a meeting in New York (on Madison Avenue), in August 2006. Participants in that meeting included EARTHWORKS, WWF, Partnership Africa Canada, Tiffany & Co. Foundation, The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the Diamond Development Initiative, Jewelers of America, Conservation International, Leber Jeweler and others.

I think that one of the best things about this group was the inclusion of two Anthropologists and a Pearl Farmer…who gave a viewpoint that few were aware of…and while they listened, my feeling was that few heard.

I left with a sense that while this group is dedicated to an honorable goal - few are willing to “pay the price” - people are still looking for $3-5 gems. I was taken by a statement by Jeremy (Tahitian Pearl Farmer) who said that instead of all these noble projects to “give back” to workers (in the gem industry), we should be offering a price for goods that provide a wage they can live on.

In order to bring Eco and Ethically sourced Jewelry to the masses several things need to happen…education being number one and involving the “old guard” these people have been doing it for decades…why re-invent the wheel. But the tendency to think that we will be able to stick with old pricing structures and “business as usual” is still slowing the process…the Madison Dialogue is a good start.

Follow up info from Christine Dhein’s “Green Jewelry News”:

Ideas for a Fair Trade Future

Survey data was collected from participants at the forum and tabulated by Susan Kingsley, of Ethical Metalsmiths, in order to create an on-line resource directory that will continue to grow with the movement. Look for more details about the directory in the next issue of GJN. Other ideas to grow the movement that came out of this session include the creation of introductory educational information for jewelers, designers, gem suppliers and others on how to get started sourcing fair trade gems. The working title of this resource is First Steps on the Road to Fair Trade Jewelry. To receive updates on progress after the forum, join the Madison Dialogue.

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I want to quickly take a moment of your time to apologize for the lack of blog posts from the Tucson Gem Show this year!!!

One discovery was that I could keep up with email and the Facebook page and Twitter page by phone - but trying to post to a blog from a smart phone - not as easy!!!!

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Guest post by my favorite gem writer…Diana Jarrett, GG RMV Member NAJA

More upbeat than last year’s dismal fair, the AGTA GemFair and its sister the Gem and Jewelry Expo (GJX) in Tucson saw the kind of action that made vendors hopeful for the first time in months this February. AGTA reported a 7% increase in attendance over last year.

One exhibitor graded his Tucson experience C+ against last year’s F-. Ok, then, that’s a good sign. All parties would agree however, that buyers were spending this time around.

Where big money was not tossed around, some money was, as buyers thought of ways to stretch their dollar.

Vendors were prepared for bargain shoppers and came ready to deliver. One of the most obvious signs that buyers wanted more mileage for their buck were the alternative metals that offered a hedgegainst the gold price shock that many retailers are struggling with. Titanium, clay metals, and proprietary blackened metals were offered in innovative designs, especially at the couture section.

Photo: Specialty metals with Titanium in Mokume Gane process make for a mesmerizing metal choice in this diamond studded pendant. First Place Contemporary Metal Jewelry Under $1,000 JCK Jewelers Choice Awards 2010. Photo Courtesy: Luis Valderrama-Spectore Corporation/Edward Mirell.

Buyers also found more goods-for-the-gelt by snapping up exotic gemstones. But the name leaves some buyers a bit off balance. What stones actually warrant the exotic designation anyway? They can be new stones that have just found their way to the trading floor and all those unusual types of organic materials that green-grabbers are going ga-ga for at the moment.

Photo: Ammolite is finding enthusiastic buyers. The blue coloring is especially collectible. Photo: Courtesy: Solid Gold Jewellery

So Ammolite, a colorful natural material derived from fossilized ammonite shells of the Northwest were hot buys. Also newly mined stones, including the mysterious Evergreen Quartz that Out of Our Mines sold were exotic. What’s in those crystal quartz cabs that create interesting forest green patterns inside? Stay tuned, they are working on it.

Photo: Evergreen Quartz cabochon is a new find. Photo Courtesy: Out of Our Mines

Bangkok’s Freaking Cat gems are another source for the odd-ball, exotic and unpronounceable gemstones that make designers look light years ahead of the curve. What was their most dwindling supply? Fordite. Yes, the ultimate green gemstone. The banded colors on this ‘rough’ material are actually umpteen layers of Ford Motor Corp. car paint colors from the 1970s that landed in –uh–a landfill we think. Anyway, Freaking Cat told us that last year about 400 pounds of the material was available, this year he could not get his hands on bupkus. Like all one source only gems–when it’s gone it’s gone and this stuff has become highly sought after and is about to become extinct.

Renee Newman saw first hand the interest being paid to exotic gems. This was the ideal time for her to debut her hot off her own presses Exotic Gems Volume 1 which is the primer for deciphering exotic gems and arming retailers with a lexicon for conveying their unique traits when selling these lovelies. But consumers should grab this reference guide too. It explains what to look for when buying these uncommon stones and it is profusely illustrated.

Pearls in newer varieties fared well at the fair. More freshwater selections were available in yummy pastel colors this year. Chinese freshwater pearls are avidly collected owing to their extremely high luster. And South Seas pearl seller Yokozuma drew a crowd with their luminous South Seas multicolor pastel strands priced at $1,300.

Photo: Multicolor natural color pearl strand in 18 inch length with white gold and diamond toggle clasp. Photo Courtesy: Baggins Inc., Los Angeles.

Los Angeles based Baggins Inc., is a perennial Tucson favorite where buyers return for pure luxe. The deep toned multi-color strands are assembled with expert attention paid to the details of matching shape, luster, and size; no small feat when you are working with natural organic material. But they do a stunning job of all that plus finessing the symmetry and balance in every strand. The result? Perfection plus. Their 18 inch natural color strands are tastefully finished with an18K white gold and pave` diamond clasp at an SRP of $14,000.

Did somebody say turquoise? I think it was Pantone; the color trend forecasters who help us plan our style-conscious future–one year at a time. Vendors brought a boat load of turquoise strands, and beads, mostly in the Kingman and Sleeping Beauty varieties. Pretty stuff–tight graining makes for smooth finishes and a high gloss, free of any sort of veining or matrix.

Colorful diamonds were a crowd pleaser this year. Just how many years back was it when diamonds were scarce at Tucson? Not any more. Prominently positioned aisles resplendent with both natural and enhanced colored diamonds seemed to be a natural for the Tucson experience. Blackies were still snapped up, mostly because of their attractive prices. Yellow diamonds were called for because so much fuss has stirred up about them in auctions this past year.

In a word–restocking. The buyers were there to stock inventory creatively by bargain shopping and exotic stone scouring to entice buy-shy customers who’ve let jewelry collecting take a really really back seat for a while. It was a very good sign in the desert at Tucson.

♦ You can follow more from Diana Jarrett in the many publications that she writes for and on her Color-n-Ice Blog

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